After spending a week with my parents in Osaka, I returned to my old form as a backpacker and ventured out to Kyoto, the cultural center of Japan. Staying at a hostel, I realized how expensive lodging in Japan is: while it cost $5 in SE Asia for a dorm bed, it cost at least $25 in Japan. Of course, the amenities and cleanliness were unmatched, and the staff made my stay very comfortable. Kyoto used to be the capital during two dynastic periods, and as the treasure chest of Japan, it is home to 17 World Cultural Heritage Sites, from the renowned Kinkaku-Ji to Kiyomizu Dera, there is more history here than anywhere else in the country.
Although the temples in Kyoto were in the running to become one of the 7 New Wonders of the World back in 2007, I was a bit disappointed because most of the buildings are reconstructions for a few centuries back. Coming from China, where everything is authentic, much of Japanese history seemed to be burned down to the ground. Nevertheless, being Japanese and having grown up with these images, it was great to actually see these famous sights in person.
After the temples and shrines of Kyoto, I headed to Takayama, a remote village in the middle of Japan. It's famous for retaining some Gassho-zukuri houses like these:
Gassho means praying hands, and this type of houses was named so from the resemblance of the roofs to praying hands. The town also had an old school charm to it, with wooden shops, sake breweries, and cobblestone streets. And as a day trip out of Takayama, I headed to Kanazawa with a French guy and a German girl, and we took a nice stroll through Kenroku-En Park, one of the 3 most beautiful parks in Japan. Patched with greenish-yellow moss and century-old Japanese pine trees, this park really made me appreciate the beauty of Japan, and I think I'll buy some Bonsai once I get my own place (although I would love to have some of these Japanese pine trees in my backyard).
My family had made a plan to have a family reunion in Tokyo over the weekend so I had to make sure that I got there on time. I met up with my parents in Ebisu, Tokyo to check into a very nice hotel, and we took the train to Ginza, where my sister, her husband, my brother, and his girlfriend were waiting for us at a fancy Japanese restaurant. My family hadn't had a real reunion like that for about 4 years, but it's the craziest thing about families - it was as if we had been living together. We didn't miss a step. This was also 2 days before my birthday so I was glad to have spent it with my family for what may be my last time.
The next day, my parents and I had a day to kill before we went our separate ways, so we went to Nikko for its famed Tosho-Gu, a famous Japanese temple and also the resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of the most famous Shogun of Japan. Like the temples of Kyoto, Tosho-Gu was filled with familiar images from TV and movies - like the No Hear, No Speak, No See Monkeys and the Sleeping Cat - but as a historic site, it was a bit of a disappointment. Maybe it was hyped up a bit much.
Because my mom had bought a 1 week JR pass, she wanted to travel with me through Tohoku, the northeastern region of Japan, where neither of us had gone before. Obviously, I was more than delighted to travel with her. From Tokyo, we went up to, in order: Sendai, Matsushima, Hiraizumi, Tazawa-Ko Onsen, Kakunodate, Hachinohe, and Towada-Ko Onsen. Although the region does not boast much history or amazing sites, this trip was special because I got to spend time with my mom. I was able to relax for a long time at Onsen, or Japanese hot springs, where you where yukata and sleep on tatami mattresses like this:
We also went on a small hiking trip alongside a river to Towada-Ko Lake, and it was absolutely beautiful.
And also, one advantage of traveling with a parent is the fact that I could eat whatever I wanted without really worrying about money. So we definitely ate well, and it was great because this region has very unique cuisine.
Having said goodbye to my mom, I went up to Hokkaido, the northern most island of Japan. I first went to Hakodate, a port city with a charming western influence, evident from the churches that dot the city. This is where the last soldiers from the bakufu took a stand in the Goryokaku fort against the Bakumatsu (end of the Bakufu) army. Known for its seafood, I could not resist the urge to spend 20 dollars and get a decadent seafood donburi, with fresh sea urchin, shrimp, crab, salmon roe, scallops, and squid, all on a bed of warm white rice. The city is also well known for its skyline at night, as it was ranked the best in Japan.
My last destination in Japan was Sapporo, famous for its beer, ramen, and jingisu-kan, a lamb barbecue. It doesn't have very many historic sites, but it has a nightlife that I had absolutely loved. Although I took a day trip to Otaru - the Venice of Japan - and Poroto Kotan, an Ainu village, my main interest of the region was going out. For two nights, I went out with some of the people from the hostel, and I was finally able to party righteously in Japan for the first time. I don't think I got more than 3 hours of sleep each night.
I had to go back to Tokyo for the flight home, but since I had gotten there a few days earlier than expected, I slept over at my sister's place for 2 nights. We went to Kamakura, the capital of Japan 700 years ago, and the Ghibli museum. I guess this gigantic statue of Buddha is an appropriate ending to my Asia trip:
And now, I have a week in Chicago and Champaign, getting my Switzerland visa and catching up with friends. I'm also getting back into research shape by reading articles and such. As I bring the first chapter of my blog to an end, I am getting ready for my new adventure in Europe!
- Ryoji
